Cooking in the West

Cattle producers have two options as I see it. One is to bury our heads in the sand and keep doing what we have been doing and expecting a better result “next year,” and the other is to educate ourselves and do something proactively with the information we gain even if that course of action is uphill and painful. My favorite semi-retired ag journalist, the amazing Leesa Zalesky, and her co-author Diane (Henderson) Gumaer have written a book that every cattle producer needs to read at least twice. Their book is entitled “A Buck A Head.” The subtitle “The Beef Checkoff; Did Greed, Envy, and a Thirst for Power Hijack Beef Research and Promotion?” foreshadows their conclusion, and I urge you to take your head out of the sand and read this book. It is available at http://www.abuckahead.com.

Columbus, Montana rancher and industry leader, Leo McDonnell, stated, “The historical value of A Buck a Head cannot be overstated.. . . if cattle producers want change in their beef checkoff, this book blazes the trail.” Personally, I have to agree with Leesa who sent me this book with a note saying, “I am very proud of this book. If this book doesn't stimulate a drive for checkoff reform, I don't know what will.”

The book explores the beef checkoff starting with its roots in the voluntary program established by the Meat Board in 1922. It was 1985 when Congress enacted the Beef Act mandating the buck a head national beef checkoff, which ushered in the era of Big Money, as the checkoff would generate $80,000,000.00 per year.

I cannot begin to summarize this 241 page book in 900 words, but I do want to share some excerpts from Leesa's Epilogue to the book in an effort to encapsulate a few of the critical lessons learned from reading this comprehensive, well-researched book.

In her Epilogue, Leesa wrote . . . “During my 20 plus year career as a freelance ag journalist, I spent a big share of my time covering commodity checkoffs, digging for truth, facts, and more in-depth information than was typically made readily available to the public. This book represents my swan song with that work. Full retirement beckons and that dream includes a beach, my flip-flops, a Bloody Mary before noon, and an American-made ribeye for supper. But before then, I have a few things left to share.

When the beef checkoff was established, it was sold to producers as the self-help program of all self-help programs. Its central principle amounted to trickle-down economics. Supporters said if you could sell more beef at higher prices, it would translate to higher live cattle prices. In other words, more money for the packer and retailer surely meant more money for the woman or man grinding it out in the calving barn. To describe such a flawed theory, economist John Kenneth Galbraith wrote, "If you feed the horse enough oats, some will pass through to the road for the sparrows.”

As I write this (October 2020), boxed beef prices are $215, the second highest level for the month of October since 2014 when October live cattle futures were $1.69. Today's October live cattle future price is $1.07. That, folks, represents an $868 spread on a 1400 pound finished steer. While retail prices for beef are higher than a kite, ranchers raising the animals from which that $215 box of beef is derived are being wiped out.

In the pages of this book, we've done our best to let history influence a case for change through facts and events. It's up to checkoff stakeholders--those who pay the bills--to decide if the program we know today is worthy of your continued investment or if the program should be put under the microscope of change and what that change should look like. It is my hope that should producers choose to take another crack at it, you'll remember that the pure essence of the Meat Board was research and promotion; the essence of the NCBA is politics.

And finally I am here to tell you that, contrary to what NCBA hollers from the bell towers about beef being beef no matter where it comes from, U.S. beef is the best in the world. America's cattlemen and women deserve a checkoff that honestly and truthfully promotes U.S. born and raised first--every single time! Good luck and happy trails!”

Not only is Leesa a top hand journalist, but she is a foodie also! Leesa wrote, “I think you’ll remember that I’m an avid fan of Thoroughbred horse racing. I’ve been to the Kentucky Derby multiple times because it’s a wonderful excuse to visit my son, who lives in Lexington and works in the horse industry. So, with the 147th Run for the Roses on the way, here are some traditional Derby Day recipes!” Thanks, Leesa!

Kentucky Hot Brown:

The Mornay sauce is the key!

2 oz. whole butter

2 oz. all-purpose flour

8 oz. heavy cream

8 oz whole milk

1/2 C. grated romano cheese plus 1 T. for garnish

pinch of nutmeg

salt and pepper to taste

14 oz. thickly sliced turkey breast (deli meat is fine)

4 slices Texas toast, crust trimmed

2 tomatoes, thinly sliced

paprika and parsley for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Make the Mornay sauce: In a saucepan, melt butter and whisk in flour until combined and forms a thick paste (called a roux). Continue to cook roux for two minutes over medium-low heat, stirring frequently. Whisk in heavy cream and whole milk and cook over medium heat until cream begins to simmer, about 2 -3 minutes. Remove sauce from heat and slowly whisk in Romano cheese until the sauce is smooth. Add nutmeg, salt and pepper.

For each Hot Brown, place slices of toast in an oven safe dish. Cover with 7 ounces of turkey. Top with a tomato slice. Pour Mornay sauce over all. Sprinkle with additional Romano cheese. Place the dish in the oven. Suggested bake time is 20 minutes or until cheese begins to brown and bubble. Remove from the oven and cross two pieces of crispy bacon on top, sprinkle with paprika and parsley if desired. Serve immediately.

Kentucky Burgoo:

(Burgoo predates the Civil War when it was made with possum, squirrel, rabbit or whatever fresh meat was readily available. Today, this traditional dish is made with beef roast, pork shoulder, or chicken or a combination of all three. This recipe features beef.)

4 pounds chuck roast or stew meat cut into large pieces

1 green pepper, chopped

1 large onion, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

2 celery ribs, chopped

5 garlic cloves, chopped

1 qt. beef broth

1 28-ounce can of crushed tomatoes

2 large potatoes, cut into chunks

1 bag frozen corn (about a pound)

14 oz. of lima beans, drained

salt and pepper

4-8 T. Worcestershire sauce

Tabasco or other hot sauce on the side

Brown the meat and remove to a bowl. Add onion, carrots, celery, and green pepper to the pot used to brown the meat and saute several minutes until tender. Sprinkle salt over the vegetables. When the vegetables are well browned, add the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds. Add back the meat and stir to combine. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat and let simmer for 2 hours. Add potatoes and simmer until potatoes are done, about 45 minutes. When potatoes are done, add the Worcestershire sauce. Add corn and lima beans. Mix well and cook for another 15 minutes. Serve with cornbread or crusty bread and a bottle of hot sauce on the side.

Chocolate Bourbon Nut Pie:

Prepare your favorite 9-inch single pie crust or just buy a premade crust.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

2 C. pecans

3 large eggs

3/4 C. dark brown sugar

2/3 C. light corn syrup

1 t. vanilla

2 T. butter, melted

3 T, bourbon (Kentucky bourbon of course!)

1/2 t. salt

3/4 C. semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chips

Toast pecans for about 8 minutes on a lined baking sheet. Coarsely chop. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the brown sugar, corn syrup, vanilla, melted butter, bourbon, and salt until blended. Stir in the pecans and chocolate chips until evenly distributed. Pour filling into the pie shell. Bake on the bottom shelf of the oven for about 55 minutes, or until the center of the pie is set. Tent the crust with foil halfway through the bake time if the edge is browning too quickly. Let cool one hour before serving.

Classic Mint Julep:

(The mint julep became the official drink of the Kentucky Derby in 1938 but was invented in Virginia as a treatment for stomach ailments.)

2 parts bourbon

1/2 part simple syrup

fresh mint leaves

Simple syrup is made by dissolving a 1:1 ratio of sugar and water together over medium heat and cool.

To assemble your julep: Add mint and syrup to a julep cup. Add crushed ice. Pour bourbon over ice. Garnish with mint sprig. Pro tip: Slapping the mint against your wrist or hand before using it as a garnish enhances the fragrance.